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Roof
Maintenance
- Inspect your roof annually for signs of deterioration and damage. Inspections can be coordinated with regular roof and gutter cleaning.
- Consider spot repairs to chimneys, penetrations (such as skylights and roof vents), roof valleys, previously repaired areas, roof areas that concentrate drainage onto lower roofs, and areas where roofing meets another material.
- Look for signs of a roof in need of replacement, such as curling shingles, broken tiles, asphalt shingles losing granular layers, and excessive moss, which might also be managed with cleaning.
Tips for homeowners considering solar or wind energy
- Hire a design professional such as a structural or mechanical engineer to do energy modeling and to examine pre-existing roof system for permitting.
- Investigate permitting issues in your county or city.
- Find a knowledgeable installer.
- Look for federal, local or utility rebates.
- Coordinate with your utility company on reverse metering.
- Buy a field-tested and reliable system.
- Do not assume you have to install on your roof; some systems can work with other locations on site for better efficiencies and solar or wind orientation.
Inside walls and ceilings
Most homes in the U.S. built before the 1970s are poorly insulated, if at all. Modern energy codes require minimum levels of insulation, but it’s possible you could be doing more to save money on your energy bill.
- Consider increasing the amount of insulation in your home with a blown-in insulating product. Blown-in insulation can be cellulose, foam or fiberglass.
- Add insulation to the ceiling through the attic – it’s like putting on a hat on a cold day. In fact, if you have to choose between wall and ceiling insulation due to a limited budget, you’ll get more bang for your buck by starting with the ceiling first.
- Insulation products are rated by their resistance to heat flow, called R-Value. The higher the R-Value number, the more effective the insulation and the lower your energy bills.
- Consider airtight drywall methods or airtight building methods, such as structural insulated panels or insulating concrete forms. Insulated headers over doors and windows also help to reduce heating and cooling loads.
- Insulate corners with two studs instead of three to allow more space for insulation.
- Use the advanced wall framing technique of 24-inch on-center framing, which saves lumber and allows for increased insulation. This method also incorporates two stud corners, insulated headers and oversized or raised trusses to allow for more attic insulation.
- Regularly inspect your attic, crawl space and the outside of your home for possible moisture problems.
Sheathing
Sheathing is attached to the roof’s framing. Homes built prior to 1950 often have tongue-and-groove boards for sheathing, while newer homes have plywood or oriented strand board (OSB).
- When replacing a roof, leave the old sheathing in place if it is in good condition. A layer of plywood or OSB can be laid on top of tongue-and-groove sheathing but it may not be necessary.
- If you do need to replace your sheathing, follow requirements for sheathing thickness given the roofing material and rafter spacing of your roof.
Underlayment
Underlayment is under the roofing material and protects the sheathing from moisture damage. Membranes are often used for additional protection beneath the underlayment in areas prone to leaks. Standard underlayment material is roofing felt, which is also known as “tar paper” or “builder’s paper.” Historically made from paper fibers saturated with asphalt, today’s roofing felt often includes fiberglass to resist tearing.
- Select 30-pound paper, as it lasts longer and provides better leak protection than 15-pound paper.
- Look for recycled content underlayment.
- During installation, ensure the sheathing is kept dry. If not, the underlayment will trap moisture and damage the sheathing.
- Consider breather membranes, which allow moisture to escape, for metal, tile and wood shake roofs.
Flashing and drip edges
Flashing is used to prevent leaks in valleys and wherever chimneys, ventilation or skylights penetrate the roof.
- For durable flashing that does not compromise environmental or human safety, select powder-coated aluminum or steel or stainless steel flashing.
- Drip edges are installed along the roof’s perimeter to keep water from tracking under the eaves where it can damage the roof and siding. The material choices are similar to flashing, with aluminum being the most readily available and ecologically-friendly option. One new innovation involves products that combine a drip edge with a roof vent.
Roofing
- Avoid copper and zinc-coated roofing materials, as they leach pollutants into rainwater.
- When choosing a roofing material, consider longevity and maintenance requirements in addition to appearance.
- Look for longer-term warranties.
- Avoid products with built-in moss inhibitors as they may contain toxins.
- Look for recycled-content roofing materials, which may be available in metal, asphalt shingle or fiber cement products. Select light-colored materials to avoid unwanted heat gain.
- If you have a low-slope roof, you may be able to install a vegetated roof or green roof. Green roofs, which have a higher initial cost, reduce rainwater runoff and heat gain and lower roof maintenance costs. Green roofs offer the same visual benefits as adding more landscaping.
- Note: If your house does not have eaves, it is especially prone to having wet walls. Homes dating from the 1940’s were often built without eaves, allowing rain to easily pass behind the gutter and drip directly into the wall cavity, causing mold and mildew and making the home harder to heat.
Gutters and downspouts
- Avoid unpainted galvanized gutters, which leach zinc into rainwater and rust over time, and polyvinyl chloride gutters, which also leach additives that harm fish.
- Choose painted aluminum gutters, as they will not affect water quality.
- Look for seamless aluminum products from services that fabricate gutters on-site to the dimensions of your home; this will reduce the likelihood of leaks.
- Make sure gutters are installed at a slight slope toward downspouts to allow for complete drainage after it rains.
- Make sure flow from downspouts drains away from the foundation.
- Consider designs that minimize clogging by leaves and debris, or consider installing leaf guard systems in existing gutters.
- Check your gutters regularly and clear them of debris.
Additional resources
Energy
Other
Note: links to external sites include educational resources and businesses that are partners of existing or former King County Solid Waste Division environmental programs. If your business offers environmentally friendly home remodeling products or services, and you would like to be listed as a resource in the Eco-Cool Remodel Tool, please contact the EcoConsumer program online.
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